Powder Coating Prep: Stripping vs Media Blasting

The secret to long-lasting powder coating isn't the powder—it's the prep work underneath.

A poorly prepared surface leads to peeling, chipping, and coating failure. But how you strip the old finish matters as much as stripping it at all.

Why Surface Prep Matters

Powder coating bonds mechanically and chemically to metal. For maximum adhesion, you need:

• Clean bare metal — No oils, rust, or old coatings
• Surface profile — Slight roughness helps powder adhere
• No contaminants — Even fingerprints can cause defects

Skip proper prep, and you'll watch your $400 wheel coating bubble and peel within months.

Chemical Stripping Explained

Chemical stripping uses caustic solutions to dissolve existing coatings.

How It Works

1. Parts submerged in stripping tank
2. Chemicals break down paint/powder bonds
3. Old coating softens and falls off
4. Parts rinsed and neutralized

Best For

• Delicate parts — Won't warp thin metals
• Complex shapes — Gets into every crevice
• Aluminum wheels — Gentler on softer metals
• Multiple paint layers — Dissolves everything uniformly

Pros

Cons

Media Blasting Explained

Media blasting propels abrasive material at high pressure to strip surfaces.

Common Media Types

Best For

• Heavy rust — Removes corrosion quickly
• Steel parts — Creates excellent surface profile
• Quick turnaround — Done in minutes, not hours
• Suspension components — Thick steel handles aggression

Pros

Cons

Head-to-Head Comparison

When to Use Each Method

Use Chemical Stripping For:

1. Aluminum wheels — Especially multi-piece or polished
2. Thin sheet metal — Hood vents, trim pieces
3. Motorcycle frames — Complex tube shapes
4. Cast aluminum parts — Intake manifolds, covers
5. Complete coating removal — When you need every layer gone

Use Media Blasting For:

1. Steel suspension parts — Control arms, subframes
2. Rusty steel wheels — OEM steel rims
3. Quick turnaround — When you need it fast
4. High-build surfaces — Creating grip for powder
5. Industrial parts — Brackets, mounts, hardware

Our Approach

We use both methods based on what your parts need:

Aluminum wheels: Chemical strip first, gentle glass bead touch-up if needed

Steel suspension: Media blast with appropriate media for profile

Mixed metal parts: Careful assessment of each component

Rusty items: Media blast to remove corrosion, then assess

Common Prep Mistakes

Mistake 1: Wrong Media on Aluminum

Too-aggressive blasting warps wheel spokes and damages surfaces. We see DIY wheels with pitting from improper blasting regularly.

Fix: Always use walnut shell or glass bead on aluminum at appropriate pressure.

Mistake 2: Skipping Neutralization

Chemical strip residue left on metal causes coating adhesion failures.

Fix: Proper rinse and neutralization steps are mandatory.

Mistake 3: Inadequate Profile on Steel

Smooth surfaces don't give powder enough to grip.

Fix: Steel needs surface profile—chemical strip alone isn't enough.

Mistake 4: Rushing Dry Time

Blasted surfaces flash rust quickly. Powder must be applied same day.

Fix: We prep and coat in the same session.

What to Expect

When you bring parts to us:

1. Assessment — We examine condition and recommend prep method
2. Stripping — Chemical, mechanical, or both
3. Inspection — Check for damage, cracks, or issues
4. Immediate coating — No time for contamination

The prep stage typically represents 30-40% of total project time—and it's worth every minute.

Ready for Powder Coating?

Proper prep guarantees proper results. Bring your parts to our Gilroy shop for professional surface preparation and powder coating.

📞 Schedule a consultation — we'll assess your parts and recommend the right prep method

📍 Visit our shop — see our prep and coating process in action

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